On the back of the Xcontroller there is a Spindle PWM pin, a Spindle (0-10v) pin and ground, I believe most who do auto spindle control with an external relay use the PWM and ground, but id check the other posts, I know others have posted pics and diagrams. Can’t find them via my phone, but I know they’re out there on this forum.
This may be a little more difficult on the X-Controller if it has it’s own relay built in for the spindle. I have read Jay at J-tech was purchasing a X-Controller so he can write up instructions on how to wire his laser driver to it. I can’t offer any advise on this subject. My instructions were for a Shapeoko or X-Carve’s original controller that uses the UNO.
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If u look up lot relay on Amazon , the Dewalt router plugs into it, there’s a port on the side of the relay with connections similar to xcontroller. U run the wires off this into toggle switch. On the other side laser comes in. And in the center is out to xcontroller. I picked up black hobby box at radio shack and wired everything inside that, only had to drill holes for wires and switch. I believe it’s called a hobby box, could be wrong.
On the “Out to XController” piece … are you using PWM and Ground pins, or Spindle (0-10V) and ground pins?
Pmw, and ground
Just to add some confusion, it’s not required to switch the grounds, they can be (and usually should be) all tied together. If it’s not already there, you should also probably put a very weak pull-down resistor on signals that are being switched out of the circuit, otherwise you’ll have a floating input and that device (laser or router) may turn on quite randomly.
Confused, if your flipping the switch wouldn’t cut power to the side not being used. The point of not tying them all into one is so u can switch back and fourth without disconnecting wires each time. And so far hav had no issues with router coming on when laser is on and vise versa.
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The back of my switch had six screws, I just followed instructions.
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The ground is also known as the “common”. Voltage isn’t an absolute measurement, it’s always with reference to something else (something that’s said to be 5 volts is 5 volts from ground). So the grounds should all be the same, so that all the voltages can be referenced from the same spot. You only need to switch the “positive” signals, which will break the circuit. This means you only need a SPDT switch (single-pole double-throw). You can switch the ground wires too if it makes more sense to you, but the ground wires should all be connected together in any case, so it’s pointless from a technical standpoint.
It gets a bit more complex when it comes to floating inputs, but basically the component looking at the signal for PWM control is trying to compare one wire (the signal) to the ground wire. If the signal wire is higher than some voltage compared to the ground wire, it turns on, if the signal wire is the same (or nearly the same) as the ground wire, it turns off. If the signal wire isn’t connected to anything (“floating”) it can be almost any voltage above or below the ground wire. Especially when other electronics are nearby it can achieve the voltage required to make the component think it’s being activated. This only happens when the signal to turn on is a voltage, not when it’s current activated (like with a relay). If you’re not having any trouble that’s good, but it might be possible, so I’m just suggesting caution.
So after a lot of monkeying around, figured out that the min and max depth were set wrong. I had them set at 100 and 1000, and my laser doesn’t start burning till about 2000. Still figuring what settings work best, but now I have a baseline to work with.
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@ChadLanthier It all depends on what you have $30 set to, which to my understanding controls the max duty cycle of the spindle power. If you set $30=10000, then your duty cycle range will be between 0 and 1000. In this case your laser will be at max power using M3 S1000. Use the $$ command to see what $30 is set to and that should give you your max power setting. Or change $30 to what ever you want.
anyone do any plexiglass with this?
Well, since most lasers that can be added to an XC are around 450 nm wavelength, you need a very powerful laser to actually get the plexiglass to absorb enough to do anything.
Plexiglass passes 80% of the power right through it.
If this is the case why do they show they can cut thru acrylic with it
It can, but not all colors. Clear is near impossible with an LD, but I have cut some translucent orange, and others have cut other colors, too.
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Would it do 3d pics and the like? Or just cut it
Most plexiglass that I have seen, come with a protective sticky paper to prevent scratches in the plexi. If this paper is opaque, then a laser can be used on it to do any cutting/engraving and then the paper backing can be peeled away.
ok got my laser and got it all set up lights on and all good to go. now what. I have vcarve desktop and easel to play with I don’t understand the commands to turn the laser on and off how do I get to those commands
I use a sender program called PicSender found here; www.picengrave.com - PicSender
The manual can be found here and explains the commands for laser use;
“http://www.picengrave.com/Pic Programs Page/PDF Files/PicLaser Tutorial/PicSender.pdf”
(need to cut and paste whole link. Forum not picking whole link up)
Tutorial/PicSender.pdf)This program can be used for sending any gcode, laser or cnc related. Makes using the laser easy IMHO. 
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so all I do is set up my picture and it can control the xcarve from that program?