# Thinking of Buying 1000mm X-Carve: Working With Metals?

**URL:** https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171
**Category:** Uncategorized
**Created:** [July 27, 2015, 7:19am UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171 "2015-07-27T07:19:37Z")
**Posts on this page:** 20
**Page:** 1

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### Author: ![MarkAndrewJob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/e47c2d/32.png) [@MarkAndrewJob](https://community.inventables.com/u/MarkAndrewJob)
#### Post date: [July 27, 2015, 7:19am UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/1 "2015-07-27T07:19:37Z")

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Dear C & C Machinests:

I am considering a purchase of a 1000mm X-Carve setup, and I want to use it mainly to machine custom folding E-Bicycle parts. I have seen several excellent examples of the X-Carve working with wood based materials, but zero videos and tutorials using the X-Carve with Metals. My question is how well does the X-Carve perform using non ferris metals such as T-6 grade Aluminium, or even Magnesium alloy based metal stock ? What is the maximum thickness of stock which can be milled on the X-Carve ? Please advise.

Sincerely,

Mark Job

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### Author: ![NickCook](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/82dd89/32.png) [@NickCook](https://community.inventables.com/u/NickCook)
#### Post date: [July 27, 2015, 10:09am UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/2 "2015-07-27T10:09:21Z")

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the x-carve will mill aluminum for sure not sure about magnesium alloy though. the maximum thickness is 2.5" and on the 1000mm model you have a cut area of 31" X 31"

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### Author: ![BrianSaban](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/briansaban/32/84709_2.png) [@BrianSaban](https://community.inventables.com/u/BrianSaban)
#### Post date: [July 27, 2015, 11:32am UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/3 "2015-07-27T11:32:10Z")

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There are plenty of videos showing people cutting metal, just type metal or aluminium in the search bar.

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### Author: ![Rusty](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/rusty/32/72583_2.png) [@Rusty](https://community.inventables.com/u/Rusty)
#### Post date: [July 27, 2015, 3:06pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/4 "2015-07-27T15:06:10Z")

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You’ll have to search for it using the American spelling (Aluminum). Here’s a video!

[![](https://img.youtube.com/vi/NlEt24mcdEY/maxresdefault.jpg "X-Carve Milling Aluminum") ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlEt24mcdEY)

Here’s a forum post about it!

> [@X-Carve Milling Aluminum](https://community.inventables.com/t/x-carve-milling-aluminum/8219):
>
> Hi all, I’ve been trying a new toolpath strategy on our shop X-Carve for a little while now. Yesterday I used it to produce a part from 6061 aluminum. I figured I’d share my success here and outline how I created the toolpaths. I used Inventor HSM to generate the toolpaths, but [Fusion 360](http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview?src=OMSE&mktvar002=638405&gclid=CNDF8ZXFxMUCFQsAaQodxZcAGQ) will do the exact same thing and is completely free to hobbyists. I started by adding tabs and surrounding material in the CAD model. Then I switched over to the CAM section and selected 2D adaptive millin…

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### Author: ![MarkAndrewJob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/e47c2d/32.png) [@MarkAndrewJob](https://community.inventables.com/u/MarkAndrewJob)
#### Post date: [July 27, 2015, 5:23pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/5 "2015-07-27T17:23:13Z")

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Hi Guys:  
OK. Thanks. (y) I suggest they put some of those on their front page group. The first thought I had about the X-Carve was Wow ! Can it carve metals like aluminium ? I’m very glad to know it can. With over 2 inches of cutting size, then this will allow me to make my dream ultra-light folding briefcase Electric scooter ! 😄

Mark

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### Author: ![Rusty](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/rusty/32/72583_2.png) [@Rusty](https://community.inventables.com/u/Rusty)
#### Post date: [July 27, 2015, 5:25pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/6 "2015-07-27T17:25:23Z")

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I would suggest upgrading the spindle from the stock right off the bat if you’re going to be milling mainly aluminium.

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### Author: ![MarkAndrewJob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/e47c2d/32.png) [@MarkAndrewJob](https://community.inventables.com/u/MarkAndrewJob)
#### Post date: [July 28, 2015, 4:36am UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/7 "2015-07-28T04:36:04Z")

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Hi Rusty:  
Can you expand upon your comments regarding possible spindle upgrade if working with metals, please ? What is the largest milling bit I may use on the stock spindle ? (Is it 1/4 inch only ?) If so, I would think 1/4 inch would be sufficient for slow passes on Aluminium ? It would also be interesting to note what other metals folks have had good success with ? I’m not so much interested in engraving stuff as I am in actually producing small parts and precision pieces in metal and carbon fibre stock right up to 2 inch thick. Also, sorry, but did not find anymore than the one video showing small Aluminium piece being cut from sheet stock.

Mark

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### Author: ![Rusty](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/rusty/32/72583_2.png) [@Rusty](https://community.inventables.com/u/Rusty)
#### Post date: [July 28, 2015, 3:30pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/8 "2015-07-28T15:30:37Z")

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You can use up to a 1/4" shank bit in the stock (with the additional purchase of a 1/4" collet), but the stock spindle is a light duty spindle. Milling a lot of aluminium is going to put that spindle through it’s paces and will more than likely wear out quite fast. Using 1/4" bits isn’t the best set up with the stock spindle as well, usually those 1/4" bits are fairly long and with the collet already being a fair distance away from the spindle bearing it can cause a bit of chatter since the bit will more than likely vibrate.

With a upgraded spindle you’ll be able to run longer and faster (depending on your chosen spindle). The stock spindle is 300w (0.4 HP) and two of the most common upgrade are the Dewalt 611 (1-1/4 HP) and a 800w VFD spindle (1 HP).

Don’t get me wrong, as someone who is currently using the stock spindle, it will definitly get the job done, but it has its limitations.

Looks at it this way, you can tow a big trailer with a Honda Civic, it’ll will do the job and you’ll get to your destination eventually, but if you were to tow that trailer with a big truck your life will just be that much better.

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### Author: ![EricDobroveanu](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/ericdobroveanu/32/78000_2.png) [@EricDobroveanu](https://community.inventables.com/u/EricDobroveanu)
#### Post date: [July 28, 2015, 8:59pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/9 "2015-07-28T20:59:29Z")

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Depending on the tolerances you are looking for, it may be very tough to cut aluminum. For example, small aluminum pieces I cut are generally ~.05-.1" off, but cutting a softer material yields much closer tolerances. This probably has to do with the vibration that courses through the machine as it cuts the relatively tough material. You can improve this by getting the smaller, 500mm X-Carve, because of the shorter rails, there is less flex in the machine. Of course, there are mods out there to help this, but still the long axis have a bit of flex and twist that you just can’t get rid of.

See:

> [@Width of gap X axis makerslides](https://community.inventables.com/t/width-of-gap-x-axis-makerslides/9448/39):
>
> [X Carve Rigid Mod.pdf](https://community.inventables.com/uploads/inventables/5584b825abbb0747f7af226e99df9b3f57cd9e944769.pdf) (132.1 KB) Here is a detailed description of how I installed the steel spline. I will repost with photo’s of the final result later today. I believe it was DavidSohlstrom that posted the size for the spline. Hope this helps anyone who is apprehensive about making this worthy upgrade. It really does have a significant impact on the machine… in a very positive way that is. Charley

and

> [@New aluminum t slot bed](https://community.inventables.com/t/new-aluminum-t-slot-bed/10256):
>
> So I am making good progress on upgrading my 500m X carve with an aluminum t slot bed. Hopefully this might help anyone considering using the same extrusions. I used two of the [Misumi 250mm extrusions](http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302261820/?HissuCode=HFSQN4-15250-%5B50-3000%2F1%5D&SeriesSpec=D001%3A%3A500&PNSearch=HFSQN4-15250-500&KWSearch=HFSQN4-15250-500&searchFlow=results2products) cut at the supplier to 500mm lengths. They came with a slight warp to them, but that seems to go away when they are bolted down to a 20x20 extrusion. @JohnScherer recommended drilling through the Misumi extrusion to bolt it to the 20x20, but unfortunately, my mini milling, drilling, lathe setu…

As for spindles, I use a DW660, but would highly advice against getting it. In my eyes, the only way to go is either the .8kw chinese VFD or a dewalt DW611 (or equiv). VFD is preferred, variable speeds and precision collets make all the difference. Also for aluminum, you will need to build up some barriers along the Y-Axis rails to block any aluminum chips from getting stuck in a vwheel or pulley or something. Speaking of the Y-Axis you DEFINITELY need to turn the pots up on the gShield. I can’t tell you how frustrated I was trying to figure out that problem, back in the early days of the X-Carve.

Also its probably worth considering having a local machinist create these out of 1/4" or thicker aluminum:

> [@Tall Y axis end plates](https://community.inventables.com/t/tall-y-axis-end-plates/8686):
>
> I downloaded a 3D model of the standard Y axis end plate. I then added 50 mm to the height of the plate. For those in the US plate can be made from .250" plate. For the rest of the world 6 mm plate would work. I hope to attach a PDF and a dxf comparing the plates. Dave [Y axis long and short.pdf](https://community.inventables.com/uploads/inventables/3591bee911cf7ba8958627f84a6a946f0a05d2027c8d.pdf) (65.6 KB) [Y axis long and short.dxf](https://community.inventables.com/uploads/inventables/3592bf7449a32a84145107bb796e7cf695fd2a4a5bd5.dxf) (122.8 KB)

In short, while you can cut aluminum with a stock machine, you’ll either get horribly poor results or it will take hours and hours for a tiny little piece. Time is money, and if you can reduce the time you spend cutting and increase the quality as well you can do some great things with this little machine. The only way to get that is to do upgrades/mods.

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### Author: ![MarkAndrewJob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/e47c2d/32.png) [@MarkAndrewJob](https://community.inventables.com/u/MarkAndrewJob)
#### Post date: [July 29, 2015, 7:24am UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/10 "2015-07-29T07:24:56Z")

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Hi Eric:  
So, if I understood you clearly, you are suggesting actually getting the 500 MM X-Carve for less flexing and then moding it ? I’m concerned the 500 MM may not be large enough, although thus far, I don’t think there is any piece to my custom folding E-Bike, which is longer than 10 inches, or thicker than 2 inches, so the smaller machine may well be where I should start 👍 I thank you for your excellent advice Eric 👍

Mark

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### Author: ![MarkAndrewJob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/e47c2d/32.png) [@MarkAndrewJob](https://community.inventables.com/u/MarkAndrewJob)
#### Post date: [July 29, 2015, 7:32am UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/11 "2015-07-29T07:32:36Z")

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Hi Rusty:  
I’m not concerned with speed ultimately. It’s always nice to have a fast and accurate machine, but at the price point we’re dealing with here, waiting an extra 20 minutes won’t break me financially. Perhaps using a 1.8 th inch and working at much slower feed rates can still yield excellent results ?? I will consider your advice. Thank you for your input Rusty 😄

Mark

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### Author: ![Rusty](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/rusty/32/72583_2.png) [@Rusty](https://community.inventables.com/u/Rusty)
#### Post date: [July 29, 2015, 2:42pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/12 "2015-07-29T14:42:09Z")

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No problem! You’ll definitely get results using the stock machine, hope you get it all sorted out! Good Luck!

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### Author: ![AaronMatthews](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/aaronmatthews/32/73728_2.png) [@AaronMatthews](https://community.inventables.com/u/AaronMatthews)
#### Post date: [July 29, 2015, 4:50pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/13 "2015-07-29T16:50:51Z")

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If your main focus is going to be on cutting metal there are some considerations.

1. Go with an upgraded spindle. You will /need/ the higher power and better bearings.
2. Go with the upgraded steppers
3. Go with the 500mm version. The smaller span will be stiffer so less flex and sag as long as you are ok with a work area of less than about 11.8"
4. Invest in right kind of bits. Get the bit that is designed to cut the type of metal you will be working with. They are more expensive but worth it.
5. Check out [CNC Cookbook](http://www.cnccookbook.com/index.htm)
6. Find a software package that uses cutting strategies optimized for metal. There are cutting strategies that optimize tool contact for best results.
7. Get a [cooling mist](http://www.fogbuster.com/) or lube spray system (depending on your cooling strategy, and what it will do to MDF, you may want to get a aluminum-slot waste board)
8. Add chip shields to the sided of your work area. The chips will get everywhere and can gum up your v-wheels
9. Consider alternatives. The x-care is a great machine, easily modable and upgradable. But it is not the only entry level design out their. Each design approach and machine has its own pros and cons.

Here is a thread that shows what the x-care can do with aluminum:

Continuing the discussion from [Aluminum Paintball Trigger Plate(s) - Cut and Anodized](https://community.inventables.com/t/aluminum-paintball-trigger-plate-s-cut-and-anodized/9924):

> [@Aluminum Paintball Trigger Plate(s) - Cut and Anodized](https://community.inventables.com/t/aluminum-paintball-trigger-plate-s-cut-and-anodized/9924/1):
>
> One of the first things I wanted to crank out with the X Carve are some trigger plates for a few paintball guns I have. These are always made of aluminum (or steel), I chose 6061-T6 aluminum. The shape is a 2D profile and 3 pockets, not overly complicated.
> 
> My X Carve is a 500mm x 500mm with NEMA 23’s and a dw660.
> 
> Heres my first attempt at cutting a trigger plate from aluminum. There is only 1 pocket in the version because it was more of a proof on concept than a final product (I’m still pretty nooby at cutting aluminum).  
> ![](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/uploads/inventables/5012d848b438bd2adc9074a1464ba73ef0c04ad4c1ed.jpg)
> 
> Because I didn’t really get feeds and speeds when I did this, it took about 25minutes to cut. Eventually I got it down to 8minutes cut time.
> 
> After a lot of testing with feeds I eventually revised my CAD model and produced a small run of 5 total trigger plates. Here are 3 of them. (Excuse the messy, greasy hands, this picture was taken right after cutting and lots of WD40 was used).  
> ![](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/uploads/inventables/50131b7c55530acf879869672c6efcc0d14cdcbeaf60.jpg)
> 
> So they look good enough by my standards, the sides are still a little chatter-y.
> 
> I then tumbled the parts in a rough/de-burring media for 45-60minutes.  
> ![](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/uploads/inventables/5014125e2ff00d4987683dc75bc16500b008a6ee8fb1.jpg)
> 
> A single trigger plate cleaned up, post rough.  
> ![](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/uploads/inventables/501519c58c3c68ea0971c4034a48274842a1b7742ce4.jpg)
> 
> I switched the bowl on my tumber from the rough stuff to the polishing compound for 36 hours.  
> ![](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/uploads/inventables/501608c5570eec5fb50daec65e3bb631daa74584c7a4.jpg)
> 
> Not an ideal finish, but I have a buffing wheel to give it a final sheen (about 1.5-2min per plate to get a near mirror finish).  
> ![](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/uploads/inventables/50177c1221ba3b6176649df3dafa7e38bc6f04f8103e.jpg)
> 
> So since I’m a paintball anodizer, I’m always thinking of stuff thats made of aluminum that I can anodize. Of course, the plan all along was to anodize these. 1 Blue, 1 Purple, and 3 Black. Now I just need to test them to make sure they wont break instantly.  
> ![](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/uploads/inventables/50183ab742f6004de4f0e07364ac99ef4b9ec8b28241.jpg)  
> (The white fiber-y stuff all over the parts is just paper towel)
> 
> Because anodizing is a fairly time consuming process, I have to make good use of my time, so heres a bonus pic of the gun I was anodizing for a client at the same time.  
> ![](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/uploads/inventables/5019842c4dc50e99ada82b6b8d2482ca0518c2ffba39.jpg)
> 
> I’m extremely please with how everything turned out, especially how the X Carve can handle aluminum fairly well. I wouldn’t cut aluminum though with anything less than the dw660. I tried with the 300w spindle that you can order with the X Carve, but it just takes way too long, there just isn’t enough power. Anyways…
> 
> Enjoy!

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<div class="post-metadata">

### Author: ![MarkAndrewJob](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/e47c2d/32.png) [@MarkAndrewJob](https://community.inventables.com/u/MarkAndrewJob)
#### Post date: [July 29, 2015, 5:03pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/14 "2015-07-29T17:03:04Z")

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Hi Aaron:  
You are the second X-Carve user to suggest I purchase the 500 MM version. Your Aluminum work is of very high quality from what I can see. Your anodizing looks wonderful ! 🙂 Well, it’s clear the X-Carve 500 mm can do the job on Aluminum I’m looking for in order to build my dream custom designed folding Electric scooter with 10 inch micro-wheels.

Thanks for the feedback,

Mark

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### Author: ![ChrisWundram](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/chriswundram/32/67510_2.png) [@ChrisWundram](https://community.inventables.com/u/ChrisWundram)
#### Post date: [July 29, 2015, 6:01pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/15 "2015-07-29T18:01:00Z")

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The point about the software is important. Easel will not do well with aluminum. I’d recommend CamBam as a good starting point. It is free for the first 40 sessions, which if you leave it running will last you a long time. Enough to get a better idea of what you want to do. You should look into things like ramping cuts (I think CamBam calls this a spiral lead-in), avoiding climb milling, and avoiding cutting slots the same width as the bit.

You probably don’t need to worry about a misting system at first. I’ve been avoiding it as I don’t want to coat my workshop (and the inside of my lungs) with aersolized cutting fluid. I’ve been doing OK by just applying a bit of cutting oil with a dropper during the cut.

A little airbrush compressor with a hose attached to the spindle mount will help clear away chips as you cut. You don’t need a lot of pressure.

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### Author: ![GeoffSteer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/7c8e57/32.png) [@GeoffSteer](https://community.inventables.com/u/GeoffSteer)
#### Post date: [August 1, 2015, 1:36pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/16 "2015-08-01T13:36:14Z")

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There’s been several mentions of the 800w spindle (and VFD)  
I weighed one of these and it comes in at 2.4kgs (over 5 lbs). Isn’t this a bit heavy for the X-Carve?

Geoff

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### Author: ![ChrisWundram](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/chriswundram/32/67510_2.png) [@ChrisWundram](https://community.inventables.com/u/ChrisWundram)
#### Post date: [August 1, 2015, 10:41pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/17 "2015-08-01T22:41:41Z")

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I’m using the 800W VFD Spindle without issue. I haven’t weighed it, but I don’t think it is that heavy. It might weigh more when full of coolant.

So far on a 500mm, NEMA23, Acme machine it is fine.

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### Author: ![GeoffSteer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/7c8e57/32.png) [@GeoffSteer](https://community.inventables.com/u/GeoffSteer)
#### Post date: [September 6, 2015, 1:17pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/18 "2015-09-06T13:17:49Z")

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I’ve now received my x-carve (1000mm) so I’ll soon know if the 800W spindle is too heavy.

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### Author: ![DavidSohlstrom](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex009/user_avatar/community.inventables.com/davidsohlstrom/32/77077_2.png) [@DavidSohlstrom](https://community.inventables.com/u/DavidSohlstrom)
#### Post date: [September 6, 2015, 4:58pm UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/19 "2015-09-06T16:58:44Z")

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Do the mod to the X axis first

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### Author: ![GeoffSteer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/7c8e57/32.png) [@GeoffSteer](https://community.inventables.com/u/GeoffSteer)
#### Post date: [September 7, 2015, 10:44am UTC](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171/20 "2015-09-07T10:44:59Z")

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Now I know what the x-axis mod is, I think I’ll do this as part of the initial build.  
There seems to be a range of opinions as to how wide the gap needs to be. 4mm is a readily available thickness in both steel and aluminium so I’ll go with that…

[Next page](https://community.inventables.com/t/thinking-of-buying-1000mm-x-carve-working-with-metals/11171.md?page=2)
