The top frame you can do with the J-Tech. The bottom will need a CO2 laser just so you know the limitations.
Get one of each! That is what I did. (well one diode and two CO2) 
Why canāt you do the bottom frame with the J-Tech laserā¦I have done similar things to that with mine.
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Cut outs and inlay take awhile. Yes possible but can turn out not so pretty.
Gotcha, I didnāt see that as an inlay, just the darker parts were hit with the laser. But yes, inlays and cutouts would be tough if possible at all.
That is too easyā¦I use V-Carve for stuff like that. Quick and easy with text and vectorsā¦normally I use the quick engrave toolpath.
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Iām self imposing a ban on myself from reading this thread. Iām just now feeling fully confident in my capabilities for the carving aspect, even though I havenāt used anything but easel yet. Iāve wanted a laser engraver LONG before I wanted a cncā¦so this is the last thing I need to look in to right now. Only problem is I just looked up the costā¦and now I want the xcarve upgrade even more.
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I canāt wait to see all the cool stuff @PhilJohnson is going to crank out with
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Dammit Phil, now you have me wanting a laser!! Iāve got to quit reading these upgrade threads!!
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for acrylicā¦ cast is ideal for laser engraving. I think Iāve seen several here who have done back of the mirror engraves
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Clear acrylic will probably not work with the J-tech laser.
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Iāve got the 2.8 and love it. I recommend the ebay lens. It works very well with the 2.8. Pro tip from those that came before me. Get a piece of black anodized aluminum and use that to focus your laser. I use a spare AR15 lower. 
You can do glass if you spray paint it first. There is a thread around here on it somewhere.(Found It)
Clear acrylic etching doesnāt work great with the 2.8 with any method. Its not that it doesnāt work but it takes so long you will quickly wonder why you arent using a bit. I have had mine since 2015. It went on the x carve before the spindle. I have had a lot of fantastic help along the way and am willing to answer any questions and share any comments, suggestions, tips that are JTech 2.8w related. Gotta give back and pay it forward for all the great help I received
Quick shout outs to a few of those that helped me
@picengravertoo
@JohnChamplain
@JTechPhotonics
@RyanCook (For the info on glass etching)
@IanWatkins (For the write up on electro etching)
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See Picengrave laser picture thread for awesome mirror engraving examples.
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Phil, take a look at LaserWeb4, itās a locally installed laser/CNC control program you access via Chrome. Havenāt tried it for CNC, but Iāve used it with my K40 laser which I converted to use a Smoothieboard. Itāll set up images for engraving.
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wanna sell that epilog?
I have a 3.8w and I did cut 1/16" maple wood with 3 to 4 passesā¦ Very clean. Just make sure you focus the laser real well.
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Once you start doing shaded etching this becomes an invaluable piece of software. One of the best features is its ability to have variable feed rates and to "skip whiteā which decreases burn time and allows for some very impressive depth to a gray scale image.
The glass is very cool but it takes a while to run. Super for gifts and friends, not so much for production.
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I am still using LaserWeb3, because I couldnāt be successful to configure LaserWeb4 working (it does not generate G-code for engraving) 
I think, that LW3 was easier with initial setup.
The 3.8Watt J-Tech was on order within a week of me getting my X-Carve 1000 a year ago. Iāve enjoyed doing mixed use projects but as an example of one of my laser only projects Iāll share a piece I made for my wife for valentines day this year.
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It engraves slightly nicer due to the smaller focal pointā¦ Just takes about 30% longer.
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Sadly, Jerry Honkanen has passed away, but his web site is still up. http://www.oldcharms.com/
Maybe his work represents an example of what you mean.
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